‘Applique Any Way’ appears in the September issue of the always informative Printwear Magazine. In the article, I cover 5 ways to create applique, no matter the amount or style of equipment you have. Supported by images of excellent work by the master of hand-cut applique, RJ Silva of Eyekandy Designs as well as some process pictures of a simple in-hoop piece of my own creation, each method is explained with its benefits and drawbacks.

The 5 methods covered in the article include:

Pre-cut – cut pieces can be ordered from various suppliers, either custom cut or in stock shapes or typefaces, usually with a supplied digitized file- easy, but not quick or necessarily customizable, depending on your vendor.

In Hoop – A larger panel of fabric is stitched down with a line demarcating the applique area and the excess is cut away; this requires a fair amount of hand-work, but it’s simpler and less demanding technically than other methods. This is the least technical method, with results that are fairly predictable and easy to achieve, especially if one uses a proper applique scissor to get a close cut.

Faux Applique – Heat-press printing material larger than the applique area is stitched down, the excess is torn away, and the finished piece is pressed to ensure adhesion. It’s not true applique, but it gives you a similar look for far less effort. (Special thanks to Laura Jastrzemski of Just My Style Embroidery for her unpublished pics of ‘Glitter Flake’ faux applique!)

Faux Applique in Glitter Flake by Laura Jastrzemski

Hand-Cut – In this method, one creates templates and pre-cuts applique design inserts to fit their final locations by hand. This is the most labor intensive method, but it allows one to use difficult-to-cut materials and to achieve very precise edges. RJ creates incredible pieces using everything from heavy upholstery materials to upcycled ponchos, and all using this method.

Hand Cut applique in process (Image Courtesy of RJ Silva)

Plotter-cutter – Specialty roll-fed materials can be cut with a standard sign-vinyl cutter with the proper blade. Though you are restricted to carrier-mounted roll materials for the most part, this method lets you use vector artwork to create your cut pieces, and allows for easy placement as the materials come complete with pressure-sensitive adhesives.

The Finished ‘Aftermath’ Design (Image courtesy RJ Silva)

It’s my contention that any decorator with an embroidery machine can, and should, try applique. Though all of us would enjoy the use of the latest, state of the art on-machine laser cutters, our first steps in the art needn’t require quite such technical kit.

To see more detail about machine embroidered applique along with more eye-candy from Eyekandy- check out the article at Printwear!